Red Eye Removal |
How to remove red eye from your photos. To fix red eye is very simple if you have Photoshop or any paint program.
What is it?
'Red eye' has been a major problem for camera manufacturers since
they first started including flash guns in their cameras. There
are many complicated an ingenious methods being tried to eliminate
the problem but, in my experience, none of them seem to work.
The most common method in use at the moment is the 'pre-flash',
which is usually a series of flashes fired quickly just before
the shot to try to close the pupils of your subject(s) and thereby
lessen the problem. Apart from the fact that this does not seem
to work that well, the problem is that people think that you have
already taken the picture and start to walk away. In this digital
age I would advise you not to use these fancy settings on your
camera, live with the red eyes, and paint them out afterwards
in Photoshop.
If you are shooting in RAW and have Photoshop CS4, there is a very good red eye removal tool built into the program. This enables you to remove the red eye with the push of a button. You just select the tool and run a marquee around each eye and the job is done.
If you don't have such sophisiticated editing software read on. |
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| The dreaded 'red eye' caused by light bouncing directly back from the center of the eye. |
It's easy enough to retouch the eyes
in Photoshop or any paint program, but, if you want to do the job properly, instead of just blasting black into the eye and then repainting
the highlights, try a more subtle method outlined below. |
The solution
Here's a quick easy two step solution.
Step one - Grab a brush in Photoshop, set the size to the size of the pupils, the hardness to about 70% and change the brush mode to 'color' instead
of 'normal'. Make sure the color palette is set to the default black foreground and white background, if not hit the small black and white icon above the color palette in the toolbox. Painting with the brush
will desaturate the red without affecting the tones in the
eye. So the highlights and any other gradations are still
there.
Step two - The tone will be a little on the light
side, the center of the eye is normally black or nearly black, but
this is easy to remedy with the burn tool, set the burn tool to affect only the shadows so that you don't lose those highlights. Be careful to only work on the pupils so as not to lose the color of the eyes.
This method works extremely well and puts you in full control of the result, unlike some of the automatic software solutions.
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